Fismuler is a part of the Group La Ancha together with La Gabinoteca, La Ancha and Las Tortillas de Gabino. It was inagurated in 2016 at Calle Sagasta, 29 Madrid. The chef-owners of Fismuler Madrid are Nino Redruello and Patxi Zumarragaunder but they have a third partner for Fismuler Barcelona who is Jaime Santianes . These three chefs are Ex-El Bullis that is considered to be Mecca of modern Spanish cuisine.
The architectural style and decoration draw the attention from the very first moment. There is a mixture of Industrial and Nordic style. The main idea of spatial-planning is the “sharing”, that’s why different clients who do not know eachother eat together on bench style large tables. Furthermore, there are tables for 4-6-8 people. Altough it is below street level, the place is well-lit.
It is strongly recommended to book the table beforehand , as nowadays Fismuler is quite popular not only among the groups to celebrate special events but also for famous public figures. For instance, Elena Anaya from Wonder Woman and a Goya-awarded director whom I do not know but make my Spaniard friends very happy and excited were dining just next to us.
Coming to the essential part: The food… First, fine slices of brined brisket have been served as complimentary appetiser. It was dry-rubbed with coffee-cumin-brown sugar. As I am a fan of the mixture of contrary tastes (sweet-salty) I enjoyed it, however I have doubts if it would appeal to all..
Later on, the semi-cured thin slices of sea-bream served with red grapes and almonds. Another appetiser was sea urchin filled with creamy sauce and served on stones. I like the sea bream more than the urchin as it has a more delicate, well balanced and refreshing taste.
The third appetiser, which is my favorite dish among all, was the lima beans with peas and fried artichokes. It is so simple yet super delicious.
My second best appetiser was bun of squid. Despite the fact that I am trying to avoid gluten as much as possible, I am glad that I made an exception for this special taste. The dough of the buns are colored as black. First I thought that the color originates from the ink of squids but as it was necessary to use an incredible amount of ink to get such a dark shade of black that the taste would have been altered, however the taste was not changed at all. Another option could have been the activated vegetal carbon. I asked the waiter about the issue and after he asked to the team at the kitchen, his answer was “tempura” which is not a technique of coloration but cooking. I believe that there was a communication gap between the waiters and the cooks. In any case, the waiters should have been well informed about the ingredientes and techniques of cooking about each course on the menu. . .
Our two main courses ,namely Tortilla with Sea Anemone and Steak of Red Tuna, were quite exquisites. Unfortunately I forgot to take the photo of the red tuna as we were too busy with chatting at that moment but I compensated it later on during my other visit to Fismuler. Anemone is a sea creature looking like seaweed.The fine omlette was stuffed with anemones and sweet-sour sauce. I liked the red tuna steak served with fried mini-peppers during my first visit, howeever I was not lucky enough during my second visit, as one side of the fish was nearly raw:( I did not enough time to ask for extra cooking, thus I tried to eat that semi-cooked steak as much as I can…
It is a correct decision to go Fismuler with a crowded group of people and share the food so that you can reserve some free-space in your stomach for the desserts. The cheesecake and Torrija were very tasty however my favourite is the Roasted Apple Sorbet served with wipped cream and puffy pastry. Beacuse of the gluten issues I could not do it but I strongly recomend you to dip the pastry into sorbet and wipped creamJ
In a nutshell: Interms of “taste of the food” for me Fismuler is two-three grades better than La Gabinoteca and one grade inferior than Las Tortillas de Gabino. I believe that Fismuler is extremely succesful in terms of creativity and the presentation, however, there are some minor problems about the taste . (Such as too heavy sauce in urchins, semi-cooked Tuna Steak-well, maybe we can consider this as a major issue…) About the ambiance, I should admit that it was above my expectations and I spent quite good time during my experiences of dinner and lunch. At my first visit, we enjoyed the oportunity of having a nice chat with friends and then had fun with the live music started after 23.00. Atferwards, I enjoyed my lunch in a cozy environment full of sun shine. Whilst the architecture is unique and modern, there were some issues in terms of comfort. For instance, moving in and out of the bench is extremely painful for women wearing a “pencil skirt”. The service is very fast and the waiters are very attentive, however it would have been better if they are much more informed about the food and better communication among the service&kitchen teams would be useful. The prices are just a little bit over the avarage and there is not special menu for lunch. Fismuler is following the “Kilometer Zero” approach and the local products are preferred to prepare the menu as much as possible. Thus, the menu changes day to day depending on the products available in the local markets.